Wells
This prelate removed the seat of the diocese to Bath, and assumed the title of Bishop of Bath, in which he was followed by his two next successors. Great disputes arising between the inhabitants of the cities, each claiming to be regarded as the head of the diocese, the matter was at length referred to the arbitration of the bishops, who decided that the prelates should take the title of Bishop of Bath and Wells, that their election should be made by an equal number of delegates from both places, and that the ceremony of installation should be performed in both churches. Reginald Fitz-Jocelyne, who was bishop in the reign of Richard T., granted the town a charter of incorporation, and made it a free borough. During the captivity of that monarch in Austria, Savaricus, who succeeded Fitz-Jocelyne in the see, and was nearly allied to the emperor, obtained through his influence a promise from Richard, as a condition of his restoration, that the abbacy of Glastonbury, then vacant, should be annexed to the see of Bath and Wells: this prelate subsequently removed the seat of his diocese to Glastonbury, and assumed the title of Bishop of Glastonbury. After his death in 1205, the monks, under his successor Jocelyne de Walles, petitioned the court of Rome that they might be restored to their ancient government by an abbot, which indulgence they obtained on their relinquishing to the bishop a considerable portion of their revenue. Jocelyne then assumed the style of Bishop of Bath and Wells, which the prelates of the see have ever since retained. Upon his death, and on subsequent vacancies occurring, disputes arose in the election of the bishop, the monks of Bath frequently exercising that right without the concurrence of the canons of Wells; but an appeal being at length made to the pope, the union of the churches appears to have afterwards remained without interruption. At the Reformation, the monastery of Bath was wholly suppressed; and though the name of the see was retained, the ecclesiastical authority, and the right of electing the bishops, were vested in the Dean and Chapter of Wells, then constituted the sole chapter of the diocese. The revenue of the monastery of Wells, at the Dissolution, was valued at £1939. 12. 8.
The city appears to have grown up around the ancient ecclesiastical establishment, and to have flourished in proportion to its prosperity, It is pleasantly situated on the south side of the-Mendip hills, in a fertile plain lying at their base, being sheltered from the north winds by that mountainous range of richly-wooded eminences, and open on the south side to an extensive tract of fine meadow land. The houses are well built, and of respectable appearance; several of them are old, having been erected for ecclesiastical residences, and many are of modern and elegant structure. The grandeur of its cathedral, the beauty of its parish church, and the character of the conventual buildings, give it an air of peculiar interest. It is divided into four verderies by four principal streets, from which they take their name; and is well paved, and amply supplied with water from a public conduit of great beauty, filled by pipes leading from an aqueduct near the source of St. Andrew's well. The environs, which abound with diversified and picturesque scenery, contain many handsome seats, and afford a variety of pleasing walks and rides. Races are held annually a short distance east of the city, beyond its liberties.
The principal branch of manufacture is the knitting of stockings. At Wookey, about two miles distant, are several paper-mills, where, from the excellent quality of the water, paper of the best kind is made. The market-days are Wednesday and Saturday for provisions: on every fourth Saturday, a large market is held for corn, cattle, and cheese; and fairs take place on January 6th, May 14th, July 6th, October 25th, and November 30th, for cattle, horses, and pedlery. The marketplace, on the east side of the city, is a spacious area, on the north side of which is a handsome range of twelve houses of stone, built by Bishop Beckington for twelve priests, and now inhabited by townsmen; at the eastern extremity is an ancient gateway, communicating with the Cathedral Close, and, fronting the street, another leading to the episcopal palace, both gateways erected by the prelate just mentioned, who intended to rebuild the whole area. Near the site of the old cross, which was taken down in 1780, stood the city conduit, an elegant hexagonal structure in the later English style, erected by Bishop Beckington in 1450, richly embellished with niches and delicate ornaments, and crowned with a conical dome. This conduit, being considered an obstruction, was taken down about 50 years since, and soon afterwards removed to Stourhead, now the seat of Sir H. R. Hoare, Bart., a new and very handsome one being erected on the site. In the south-eastern angle of the market-place is the town-hall and market-house, a plain commodious building.
The charter granted by Reginald Fitz-Jocelyne was confirmed by King John, who entrusted the government to a master and commonalty; and Queen Elizabeth gave the inhabitants a new charter, in the 31st of her reign. The corporation now consists of a mayor, four aldermen, and twelve councillors, under the act 5th and 6th of William IV., c. 76; the municipal and parliamentary boundaries are co-extensive, and the number of magistrates is six. The freedom is inherited by the eldest son of a freeman, or obtained by servitude. The inhabitants first exercised the elective franchise in the 23rd of Edward I., since which time they have regularly returned two members to parliament; the right of voting was extended in 1832 to the £10 householders of an enlarged district, comprising 715 acres, and the mayor is returning officer. The powers of the county debt-court of Wells, established in 1847, extend over the registrationdistrict of Wells, and part of the districts of Axbridge and Shepton-Mallet. The assizes for the county are held here every alternate year, and the Epiphany and Easter quarter-sessions annually.
The ecclesiastical establishment, as refounded by Henry VIII. on the dissolution of the monastery, consists of a bishop, dean, precentor, chan cellor, three archdeacons, treasurer, sub-dean,four resident canons, 44 prebendaries, four priest-vicars, eight layvicars, organist, six choristers, and other officers. The cathedral, dedicated to St. Andrew, is a magnificent cruciform structure, principally in the early English style, with partial insertions in the decorated and later styles; the foundation was laid by Wiffeline, second bishop of the diocese, and the edifice was completed and improved by Bishop Jocelyne, in 1239. The west front is a striking combination of stately grandeur and elaborate embellishment, the whole of it, with the buttresses by which it is divided into compartments, being replete with sculpture, from the base to the summit, in successive tiers of richly-canopied shrines, containing statues of kings, popes, bishops, cardinals, and abbots. The mullions of the west window and the lower stages of the western towers are similarly enriched. The canopies of the niches in which the figures are enshrined, are supported by slender shafted pillars of polished marble, and the intermediate spaces between the several scries are filled with architectural ornaments of elegant design. In the upper range of the central compartment are statues of the Twelve Apostles, in a series of lofty niches separated by slender shafts, and in the range immediately beneath them are figures of the hieran hs, below which is a sculptured representation of the Resurrection, in alto-relievo. The entrance, through a deeply-recessed arch, is flanked by the towers, of which the lower stages are comprised in the general design of the front, while the upper, wreathed with pierced parapets, are relieved by fine windows, and with lofty canopies rising from the buttresses, and terminating in crocketed finials. The central tower of the cathedral is crowned by a pierced parapet of elegant design, decorated with lofty angular pinnacles surmounted by vanes, and with smaller pinnacles in the intervals. Though of large dimensions, it has an airy appearance, from the proportionate size and elegance of the windows.
The interior displays some specimens of the early English style which are of unfrequent occurrence, and equally remarkable for simplicity and elegance. Of this character are the nave and transepts. The former is separated from the aisles by clustered columns and finely-pointed arches, above which are a triforium of lancet-shaped arches, and a range of clerestory windows, in which tracery, in the later English style, has been inserted; the roof is finely groined, and the great west window is adorned with ancient stained glass of much brilliancy. The choir is in the decorated style, and of very elegant character, and beyond it is the Lady chapel, both forming parts of one general arrangement, which for beauty of design, and richness of embellishment, is perhaps unequalled. There are numerous chapels in the cathedral, some of which are inclosed with fine screens; in one is an ancient clock, removed from Glastonbury, with an astronomical dial, and a train of figures of knights, in armour, which by the machinery are moved round in procession. In the south transept is a font of the same date as that part of the building. The cathedral contains many interesting monuments of the bishops and others who were interred within its walls, including the tomb of Bishop Beckington in a chapel in the presbytery, with his effigy in alabaster; the gravestone of Bishop Jocelyne in the middle of the choir, marking the spot where an elegant marble monument, bearing his effigy in brass, formerly stood; and that of King Ina, who was interred in the centre of the nave. The edifice has been recently repaired, some new stained-glass windows have been inserted, and tessellated pavement laid down.
The Cloisters form three sides of a quadrangle south of the cathedral. The western range, comprising the school and the treasury, was built by Bishop Beckington, who also began the south side, which was finished by Thomas Henry, treasurer of Wells, and archdeacon of Cornwall; the eastern range, containing a chapel and a library, was erected by Bishop Bubwith. The Chapter-house is an elegant octagonal structure; the roof, which is finely groined, is supported on a clustered column of Purbeck marble in the centre, and the building is lighted by handsome windows. Beneath is a crypt of good design, with a roof displaying a fine specimen of plain groining, from which a staircase of singular construction leads into the chapter-room, and to several parts of the adjacent buildings. On the south of the cathedral is the Episcopal Palace, an ancient castellated mansion, surrounded with walls inclosing nearly seven acres of grouud, and defended by a deep moat, which is supplied from St. Andrew's well: a venerable gateway tower on the north side leads over a bridge into the outer court, on the east side of which is the palace, containing several magnificent rooms, and a chapel. Opposite the entrance are the remains of the great hall, which was demolished in the reign of Edward VI., for the materials.
The Vicars' Close was originally built by Walter de Hull, canon of Wells, and archdeacon of Bath, and was improved in 1348, by Bishop Ralph de Salopia, who erected a new college for the residence of the vicars and choristers, which he endowed with lands of his own, in addition to what were given by Walter de Hull. The college was subsequently enlarged, and its endowment augmented, by Bishop Beckington, who erected the gateways, of which that on the east, adjoining the cathedral buildings, has a long gallery communicating with the church and the vicars' close, with a large flight of steps at each end. At the south end is a hall, with a buttery and other conveniences, under which is an arched gateway; at the north end are the chapel and library, and on the east and west sides are handsome range's of dwelling-houses. This college, the revenue of which, in the 26th of Henry VIII., was £72. 10. 9½., escaped the general Dissolution, and was refounded by Queen Elizabeth, who appointed the number of vicars to be not less than fourteen, nor more than twenty. The Deanery is a spacious structure, erected by Dean Gunthorp, in allusion to whose name the walls are ornamented with several guns, carved in stone: in this mansion the founder entertained Henry VII., on his return from the west of England. Near the deanery is the west gate, a plain ancient edifice, forming the principal entrance into the city from Bath.
The city comprises only the in-parish of St. Cuthbert, which surrounds the cathedral precincts: the several hamlets that are without the limits of the city, extending seven miles in circuit, form the out-parish of St. Cuthbert. The living is a vicarage, valued in the king's books at £33. 13. 6., and in the gift of the Dean and Chapter, who are also appropriators: the great tithes have been commuted for £1030, and the vicarial for £800. The church is a handsome structure in the later English style, with a lofty square embattled tower, strengthened by angular buttresses, and crowned with pinnacles. Though of large dimensions, the tower has a degree of lightness from the judicious distribution of its ornaments, and the relief afforded by its niches of elegant design: the belfry windows are lofty, and, from the excellence of their composition, give to the tower above the roof the character of a magnificent lantern; the west door, and the large window over it, are also richly embellished. The interior of the church comprises a nave, aisles, and choir, and contains several sepulchral chapels, among which are traces of an earlier style of architecture than that of the main building; the walls are adorned with several ancient monuments and mural tablets. There is a district church at East Horrington, with 260 sittings: another was built at Coxley in 1838, by aid of a grant from Her Majesty's Commissioners, containing 264 sittings; and a third was erected at Easton in 1841, comprising 220 sittings. In the town are places of worship for Baptists, Independents, and Wesleyans. The collegiate grammar school contains 26 boys, 8 of whom being choristers of the cathedral, are paid for by the Dean and Chapter. The United Charity School, established in 1654 by Mrs. Mary Barkham, Mr. Adrian Hickes, and Mr. Philip Hodges, the last of whom erected a school-house, is endowed with property producing above £500 per annum.
On the north side of the churchyard is an hospital, founded and endowed by Bishop Bubwith, who died in 1424, for twelve aged men, twelve women, and a chaplain; to which six men were added in 1607, by Bishop Still, who augmented the endowment for that purpose: including a previous augmentation by Bishops Beckington and Bourne, the present income is about £400. The buildings are neat, and comprise separate apartments for each, with a common room, and a small chapel at the east end. Some almshouses in Priest's-row were founded in 1614, by Henry Llewellyn, who endowed them for six aged women; the revenue is about £170 per annum, from which a weekly allowance is also paid to four aged widows not in the houses. An almshouse for four decayed burgesses was established in 1638, by Walter Brick. Houses were founded in 1711, by Archibald Harper, who endowed them with property now worth about £70 a year, for five decayed wool-combers; and there are numerous other charitable bequests and funds. The poor-law union of Wells comprises 18 parishes or places, and contains a population of 20,611. In the verdery of Southover are the remains of the priory of St. John, instituted in 1206, by Hugh, Archdeacon of Wells (afterwards Bishop of Lincoln), and subsequently augmented by Bishop Jocelyne; the revenue at the Dissolution was £41. 3. 6.: the buildings have been converted into a wool-comber's shop. The neighbourhood, especially on the side of the Mendip hills, abounds with geological interest. Among the eminent prelates of the see have been Cardinal Wolsey and Archbishop Laud; the celebrated historian, Polydore Vergil, was archdeacon in the 16th century; and the learned and pious Dr. George Bull, Bishop of St. David's, was born in the city, in the year 1634.
Transcribed from A Topographical Dictionary of England, by Samuel Lewis, seventh edition, published 1858.