Portsmouth (St. Thomas à Becket)
According to Leland, Henry VII. established seven breweries for supplying the troops in time of war. Henry VIII. erected Southsea Castle, at the south-west extremity of the Isle of Portsea. In 1544 a French fleet anchored off St. Helen's, in the Isle of Wight, having on board a large military force for the invasion of England; but the English army, under the command of the Duke of Suffolk, assembled at Portsmouth, and the British fleet, commanded by Viscount Lisle, the lord high admiral, after an obstinate engagement, repulsed the enemy with considerable loss. Edward VI. passed a night at Southsea Castle, and viewed the fortifications, ordering two towers to be erected, with an immense iron chain extending from one to the other across the mouth of the harbour (which on the French fleet in the American war appearing off Plymouth, was raised so as to prevent vessels entering); and during the reign of Elizabeth the fortifications were greatly strengthened. In the reign of Charles I., John Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, who had arrived at Portsmouth to superintend the movements of the fleet and army assembled here for the invasion of France, was assassinated by Felton, a disappointed officer, who had served under him at the Isle of Rhé; and the place in the High-street where the deed was perpetrated, then an inn called the Spotted Dog, is still pointed out. Soon after the commencement of the civil war, a party of Cromwell's soldiers surprised Southsea Castle, of which they took possession; and the town itself subsequently fell into the hands of the parliamentarians. After the Restoration, the nuptials of Charles II. with Catherine of Portugal were solemnized in the chapel of the garrison. James II., while lord high admiral, frequently visited Portsmouth, and previously to his abdication of the government, imprisoned the officers of the garrison for refusing to admit his Irish troops. In 1782, the Royal George, having 110 guns and 1200 men, commanded by Admiral Kempenfelt, while under the process of careening at Spithead, unfortunately sank, when the admiral, and more than two-thirds of the crew, perished: many of her guns, and a considerable portion of her stores, have by the use of the diving-bell been recovered, and more recently the wreck has for the most part been shattered and dispersed by the application of gunpowder. George III. visited the port several times; and in 1814 the Prince Regent remained here for some days with the allied sovereigns.
The town, which is about a mile and a half in circuit, is divided into two nearly equal parts by the principal street, and intersected by several others. It is supplied with excellent water by two companies, incorporated by act of parliament: an act for more effectually paving and lighting the town, and otherwise improving it, was passed in 1847. The house of the governor, at the upper end of the grand parade, originally the Domus Dei founded by Peter de Rupibus, Bishop of Winchester, and which was occupied by George IV. on his visit to the town, has been taken down. The residence formerly of the port-admiral, situated in the High-street, has been lately improved at the expense of government. A philosophical society, established in 1818, is held in a handsome building in St. Mary street, comprising a convenient lecture-room, and a museum containing more than 9000 specimens in natural history. A mechanics' institute was founded in 1825. The theatre is opened regularly during the season; and concerts and assemblies take place.
The gateways leading into the town through the fortifications, which surround it in a semicircular form, are remarkable for the justness and variety of their architectural character: that erected by James II. is an elegant specimen of the Corinthian order, from a design by Inigo Jones; that of George III. is in the rustic style. The ramparts which are in parts ornamented with trees, afford extensive prospects; and the view of the town from Portsdown Hill, a few miles distant, combines an infinite variety of objects of the deepest interest. The fortifications, exclusively of those which immediately surround the town, comprise numerous outworks: the entrance to the harbour is defended by Blockhouse fort on the one side, in Alverstoke parish, and the fortifications of the town on the other. Southsea Castle, having suffered some damage from an accidental explosion, was rebuilt in 1814, and is capable of containing a garrison of 200 men, with well-mounted batteries of heavy ordnance: Fort Monkton is a regular fort of prodigious strength, defended with 32 pieces of heavy ordnance, and numerous redoubts. These two forts serve to protect the mouth of the harbour, on the east and west sides of which, along the coast, are various other strong fortifications, of which Cumberland fort, erected in 1820, and commanding the approach to Langston harbour, is mounted with 100 pieces of heavy ordnance, and contains accommodation for 4000 troops. Fort Monkton is in the parish of Alverstoke, and Southsea and Cumberland forts in that of Portsea. Within the town are four guard-houses; and near the principal entrance gate are Colewort barracks, with a parade ground: the garrison includes three regiments of infantry, and a division of the royal marines, with detachments of artillery and engineers. The fortifications have been recently very much improved; additional guns have been mounted, barracks erected, and the lines repaired. For an account of the dockyard, see the article on Portsea.
The port extends from the opening of Southampton Water on the west, to the town of Emsworth on the east, including Langston, St. Helen's, and Portsmouth harbours, and Spithead. The custom-house was converted to its present use in 1827, from an old storehouse belonging to the victualling department; it is conveniently situated, and in front of it is an extensive quay. The harbour, which is unrivalled for capaciousness and security, is about 250 yards broad at the mouth, and, expanding into a broad open lake, extends for several miles to the north, affording shelter to ships of the largest burthen: its safety is greatly increased by the Isle of Wight, which forms a natural breakwater, and by the inland elevations. From the western side of the entrance is the sand-bank called the Spit, about three miles in length, but not perceptible above water; the roadstead, called from this circumstance Spithead, is marked out by buoys. The foreign trade consists chiefly in the importation of timber from the Baltic, and eggs from France; the coasting-trade is extensive, and in time of war the influx of merchant ships is very great. The number of vessels of above 50 tons registered at the port is 69, and their aggregate burthen 9479 tons; the amount of duties paid at the custom-house annually is about £70,000. The port is the general rendezvous where outward-bound ships take convoy, and frequently 700 merchantmen have sailed at one time from Spithead. Steam-vessels ply several times a day for the Isle of Wight, and regularly between the port and Plymouth and Havre. In 1837-8, an act was obtained for making a floating bridge over the harbour to Gosport Beach; this has been effected under an amended act procured in 1840, and the passage is generally performed in about 6½ minutes. An act was obtained in 1839 for enlarging the town quay, and improving that portion of the harbour called the Camber. In 1845 an act was passed for a railway to Chichester, which was completed in June 1847; and in 1846 an act was obtained for a railway to the Fareham station of the London and South-Western railway: in the latter year, also, was passed an act for a direct railway to London, by way of Petersfield and Godalming. The market-days are Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday; a fair is held on July 10th, which lasts fourteen days.
It is supposed that a charter was conferred on the borough by Henry I., but the first of which there is any certainty was granted by Richard I. Others were bestowed by King John and Henry III.; these were confirmed by succeeding sovereigns, and new ones given by Elizabeth and Charles I. By the act 5th and 6th of William IV., cap. 76, the corporation now consists of a mayor, 14 aldermen, and 42 councillors; the municipal boundaries of the borough, which is divided into seven wards, are co-extensive with those for parliamentary purposes, and the number of magistrates is twenty-two. The place first exercised the elective franchise in the 23rd of Edward I., since which time it has regularly returned two members to parliament: the right of election is vested in the £10 householders of the parishes of Portsmouth and Portsea, comprising an area of 9717 acres; and the mayor is returning officer. A court of quarter-sessions is held for the trial of all offences not capital, at which the recorder presides; there is also a court of record on Tuesday in every alternate week, for the recovery of debts to any amount. The powers of the county debt-court of Portsmouth, established in 1847, extend over the registration-districts of Alverstoke, Fareham, Havant, and Portsea. The guildhall is a spacious new building, in the High-street, with an area underneath for the market; the old town hall, which stood in the centre of the street, has been removed. The borough gaol, completed in 1809 at an expense of £18,000, is a large range of building, including courtrooms for the business of the sessions, a council-chamber, and a bridewell: it has been enlarged pursuant to a general act.
The living is a vicarage, valued in the king's books at £6. 13. 4.; net income, £555; patrons and impropriators, the Warden and Fellows of Winchester College. The church is a venerable and spacious cruciform structure in the early English style, with a tower surmounted by a cupola, 120 feet high, forming an excellent landmark: the interior is handsomely arranged; the cenotaph of the Duke of Buckingham, in which his heart is enshrined, forms the principal ornament of the altarpiece. A chapel, dedicated to St. Mary, built by aid from Her Majesty's Commissioners, and containing 1200 sittings, 700 of which are free, was consecrated on August 1st, 1839: the living is in the Vicar's gift. The garrison chapel, once appertaining to the monastery of Domus Dei, has been thoroughly repaired for the use of the officers and soldiers of the garrison: the communioncloth exhibits a view of Lisbon, and there is a monument to the memory of Sir C. Bloring, standard-bearer in the reign of Elizabeth; the plate was presented by Queen Anne. Here are places of worship for Independents, Wesleyans, and Unitarians. The free grammar school was founded in 1732, by Dr. Smith, a physician of the town, who bequeathed for its support the farm of East Standon, in the Isle of Wight, the head master is appointed by the dean and canons of Christ-Church, Oxford, who are trustees. There are various bequests for distribution among the poor. On the summit of Portsdown Hill, and fronting the harbour, is a stone pillar, erected to the memory of Lord Nelson, by those who fought under his command in the memorable battle of Trafalgar; it forms a most interesting object, whether viewed from sea or land. Jonas Hanway, the philanthropist, was born at Portsmouth in 1712. It gives the title of Earl to the family of Wallop.
Transcribed from A Topographical Dictionary of England, by Samuel Lewis, seventh edition, published 1858.