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Yarmouth, Great (St. Nicholas)

YARMOUTH, GREAT (St. Nicholas) a sea-port, borough, market-town, and parish, and a union of itself, having separate jurisdiction, locally in the E. division of the hundred of Flegg, E. vision of Norfolk, 19 miles (E. by S.) from Norwich, and 123 (K. E.) from London; the parish containing 24,086 inhabitants. This place, which, from its extensive and prosperous trade and many other advantages and privileges, may be considered the most flourishing town on this part of the coast, derives its name from its situation at the mouth of the river Yare, which here falls into the ocean. It occupies ground originally covered by the sea, which, on its receding, left a bank of sand whereon a few fishermen settled, the first of whom, denominated Fuller, imparted his name to the higher portion, still called Fuller's Hill. As the bank increased in extent and density, the population augmented; but the channel of the northern branch of the Yare, on which the first settlers fixed their habitations, becoming choked up with sand, they removed in 1040 to the southern branch.

The earliest authentic record of the place is in Domesday book, in which it is described as "the king's demesne, and having seventy burgesses." Its fishery at an early period attracting many residents, a charter was granted by Henry III., at the request of the inhabitants, allowing them to inclose the burgh, on the land side, with a wall and moat; the wall was 2240 yards in length, and had sixteen towers and ten gates. A castle having four watch towers, and upon which a fire beacon was placed in 1588, was also built about this time, in the centre of the town. In the last-named year, a mound called South Mount, was thrown up and crowned with heavy ordnance; and the place was then considered impregnable. The castle having been demolished in 1621, and the changes introduced into the system of warfare rendering further defences necessary, strong parapets were constructed in front of the town, and cannon planted on them, facing the sea: the circuit of the fortifications thus completed was nearly two miles and a half. The only military operation in which the inhabitants have been ever actually engaged was their gallantly repulsing Kett, when in his rebellion he attempted, at the head of 20,000 men, to take the town by assault. But though the place has been only slightly visited by the scourge of warfare, it has suffered severely from the plague, to which, in 1348, upwards of 7000 persons fell victims; in 1579, upwards of 2000; and more than 2500 in 1664.

The town occupies an extent of 153 acres, on the western bank of a peninsula formed by the river Yare and the sea; and is connected with South Town, or Little Yarmouth, on the opposite bank of the stream, by a bridge. It is of quadrangular form, about a mile long, and half a mile broad, and consists of four good streets parallel with each other, a handsome street leading to the quay, on which is a noble range of buildings, and a great number of narrow rows intersecting the principal streets at right angles. Within the last twenty or thirty years, many handsome houses and several hotels have been built on the Denes, a fine down south of Yarmouth. The town is lighted with gas, is well supplied with fresh water, and the streets are kept remarkably clean. There are several very ancient houses, one of which, built in 1596, was the residence of a granddaughter of Oliver Cromwell: in the drawing-room, which is elaborately ornamented with rich carved work, and has been restored to its pristine state, a meeting of principal officers of the parliamentarian army is said to have been held for the purpose of deciding the fate of Charles I. The theatre, a commodious edifice erected in 1778, near the market-place, is open during the summer months; and races take place in August, on the South Denes. The bathing-houses on the beach, near the jetty, possess every accommodation for visiters; and adjoining is a public-room, built in 1788, where balls and concerts are occasionally held. There are very pleasant walks on the quay and beach; and the extensive sea view, enlivened by the number of vessels in the roads, is a source of considerable gratification to those who frequent the town as a watering-place. The barracks on the South Denes, near the beach, form a magnificent quadrangular range of buildings, designed by Mr. Pilkington, and erected at a cost of £120,000: the armoury in South Town will contain, exclusively of other military and naval stores, 10,000 stand of arms. Between the barracks and the entrance to the harbour is a grand fluted column, 130 feet high, surmounted by a statue of Britannia, erected to the memory of Admiral Lord Nelson, and, as a landmark, well supplying to seamen the loss of Gorleston steeple, which was blown down in the year 1813. On the quay is the custom-house; within a short distance is a public library with a good collection, and adjoining the library are subscription reading-rooms. A handsome suspension chain-bridge, of eighty-six feet span, was constructed at the northern part of the quay, over the river Bure, under the provisions of an act passed in 1827. On May 2nd, 1845, a frightful accident occurred, by the breaking down of this bridge. A clown had announced that he would perform a certain feat on the river, and at the moment when all eyes were strained to witness his approach, the bridge gave way, and those upon it were plunged into the water below: 79 lives were lost.

Yarmouth is not a manufacturing town, but a considerable establishment for winding and throwing silk has been formed in connexion with a larger concern at Norwich, for which buildings have been erected on the site formerly occupied by the barracks, on the north of the town. There are also extensive yards for ship-building, with corresponding rope-walks, and several large breweries. A great trade is carried on coastwise in malt, corn, flour, coal, timber, and other articles. A direct intercourse is maintained with the Baltic, the Mediterranean, Portugal, and other parts of the continent; and a regular communication by steam-vessels is kept up with London and the north of England. But the principal source of trade by which the town is supported is the herring-fishery, which is usually productive to a remarkable extent. The fish, when cured, or dried, for both which processes there are very extensive establishments, are not only sent to every district in the kingdom, but exported in considerable quantities to other parts of the world, particularly to the West Indies. Many vessels from other places on the coast fish here, and some, at a defined distance, from foreign countries. The mackerel-fishery is also extensive.

The situation of Yarmouth, in a commercial point of view, affords unusual advantages. The Yare is navigable here for vessels of 250 tons' burthen; and to Norwich, a distance of thirty-two miles, for smaller vessels, without the intervention of locks. The Waveney, which falls into the Yare, is navigable by Beccles to Bungay, a distance of twenty miles; and the Bure, which also joins the Yare, by Horstead to Aylsham, thirty miles, and another branch to North Walsham, twenty-five miles hence; thus opening an extensive and valuable channel of inland communication. An act was obtained in 1842 for the formation of a railway from Yarmouth to Norwich, along the northern bank of the Yare: the line was completed in 1844. Many attempts have been made to form a safe harbour, at the enormous expense of above £240,000; the present one, which is the seventh that has been constructed, was projected and executed, at an expense of about £4200 only, by Jans Johnson, a native of Holland, and affords secure anchorage at all times. In 1835, an act was passed for improving the haven and the several rivers connected with it; also for repairing or rebuilding the bridge over the haven, and St. Olave's bridge across the Waveney. At the entrance of the Yare are two piers; that on the south, 1230 feet long, forming an agreeable promenade; and that on the north, 400 feet in length, erected on wooden piles, and secured by an iron railing. The quay, which in length, and beauty of construction, ranks the first in England, is a very great ornament to the town; its centre is formed into an agreeable walk, planted on each side with trees. A duty is levied on all coal brought to the port, and applied, under the direction of twelve commissioners, to keeping the jetties and piers in repair, and deepening and clearing the river. The number of vessels of above fifty tons, registered at the port, is 315, and their aggregate burthen 34,676 tons. The navigation of the coast is very dangerous; the Roads, in which are two floating lighthouses, are frequently resorted to by the North Sea fleet, and merchant-vessels are constantly repairing to them for shelter. The market is on Wednesday and Saturday; fairs are held on the Monday and Tuesday at Shrovetide, and on the Friday and Saturday in Easter-week. The present corn-exchange was opened in 1842, the fish-market in Oct. 1844.

Prior to the reign of King John, the town was governed by a provost appointed by the crown; but a charter of incorporation granted by that monarch in the ninth year of his reign, empowered the burgesses to choose their own magistrates, called bailiffs, who were authorized to hold a court of hustings, now called the Burgh court. The privileges were extended by succeeding sovereigns. Edward II. granted tronage to the burgesses, and exemption from serving on any assizes, juries, or inquisitions, out of the borough; and the charter of Elizabeth conferred power to hold an admiralty court weekly, with liberty to try all maritime causes, except piracy. The corporation at present consists of a mayor, high steward, recorder, twelve aldermen, and thirty-six councillors, assisted by a townclerk, water-bailiff, gaoler, three sergeants-at-mace, and other officers, appointed under the act 5th and 6th of William IV., cap. 76; the borough, formerly consisting of eight wards, is now divided into six, and the number of magistrates is twenty-six. Courts of session take place quarterly before the recorder; a court leet and court of pie-poudre are also held. The freedom is obtained by birth or servitude. The borough first sent members to parliament in the reign of Edward I.; the elective franchise was extended, in 1832, to the £10 householders of an enlarged district, which comprises 2823 acres: the mayor is returning officer. The admiralty jurisdiction was abolished by the Municipal Corporations' act; the last court of admiralty was held on the 7th of Sept., 1835. The jurisdiction of the corporation, by charter of the 20th of Charles II., extends to South Town, or Little Yarmouth, in the county of Suffolk, and, as regards the Yare, Waveney, and Bure, for ten miles upon each of those rivers. The inhabitants are not liable to serve on juries for the county, nor to the payment of county rates, as the corporation supports the gaol, and maintains the prisoners; and writs, unless accompanied with a non omittas, can only be executed under the warrant of the mayor, and by one of his officers. The powers of the county debtcourt of Yarmouth, established in 1847, extend over the two registration-districts of Yarmouth, and East and West Flegg, and part of the district of Mutford and Lothingland. The town-hall, near the centre of the quay, is an elegant building of the Tuscan order, with a portico in front, and is also the mansion-house: the council-chamber, in which public meetings and assemblies are held, is a splendid room, ornamented with a fine portrait of George I., in his robes; the card-room is spacious, and contains paintings, by Butcher, of the quay, the Roads, and the market-place, and a portrait of Sir Robert Walpole, who was high steward.

The living is a perpetual curacy 3 net income, £430; patrons, the Dean and Chapter of Norwich. In Domesday book mention is made of a church dedicated to St. Benedict, probably erected by the barons of the cinqueports, and of which the foundations are still visible, about a mile from the entrauce of the town. The present edifice, situated in the north-east part of the town, was founded by Herbert de Lozinga, Bishop of Norwich, about 1101, and appropriated to the prior and monks of the Holy Trinity at Norwich, who had a cell here: he built only the cross, which constitutes the present nave and transepts; the aisles were added in 1250, and in the following year the church was dedicated to St. Nicholas. It is a handsome cruciform structure in the early, decorated, and later English styles, with a central tower and spire, four turrets at the west end surmounted by pinnacles, and an elegant south porch. Seventeen oratories, each with an image, altar, lights, &c., and supported by a guild, were instituted in it. The organ, built in 1733, is a splendid instrument. On the tower was a wooden spire, which appeared crooked from whatever side viewed; it was replaced by the present one in 1804. St. George's chapel, a handsome edifice built in 1716, is supported by a duty of one shilling per chaldron on all coal consumed in the parish: patron, the Rev. Mark Waters; net income, £200. An additional church, dedicated to St. Peter, and in the later English style, with a lofty square tower, was erected near the White Lion Gates, on the north side of the road to the jetty, in 1833, at an expense of £7596, which was defrayed by subscription, aided by a grant from the Commissioners for Building and Enlarging Churches. The living is a perpetual curacy; net income, £160; patron, the Incumbent of St. Nicholas'. There are places of worship for Baptists, the Society of Friends, Independents, Primitive Methodists, Wesleyans, Lady Huntingdon's Connexion, Unitarians, and Roman Catholics.

The free grammar school, in the market-place, commonly called the children's hospital school, was founded by the corporation, in 1651, and was part of St. Mary's hospital. It is now a free school for reading, writing, and arithmetic only; thirty of the boys and twenty of the girls are maintained and apprenticed. The revenue of the charity, independently of fines upon the renewal of leases, is £856. 19., of which £100 per annum, with a septennial fine of £100, are derived from an estate in Ireland, now worth £6000 per annum, but of which a lease for 1000 years at the above rental was granted in 1714. The Rev. Edward Warnes, in 1694, bequeathed an estate now let for £375 per annum, which is distributed at Easter and Christmas among orphans and widows, those of clergymen having the preference. The Fishermen's hospital, of a quadrangular form, comprising twenty houses of two rooms each, for the accommodation of that number of fishermen and their wives, has an annual income of £160, paid by the treasury, originally as a reduction of the duty then levied upon all beer carried to sea; also an income of £56. 10. derived from various private benefactions. Seventy-eight houses in different parts of the town are occupied rent-free by paupers; and an annual sum of £62. 10. is distributed by trustees in money, bread, and coal, among the inmates. Besides the cell belonging to the Holy Trinity at Norwich, and the hospital of St. Mary, there were a cell of Augustine friars belonging to the priory of Gorleston, two lazar-houses, and houses of Black, Grey, and White friars, many fragments of which remain, as well as of the ancient town walls. Yarmouth gives the title of Earl to the Marquess of Hertford.


Transcribed from A Topographical Dictionary of England, by Samuel Lewis, seventh edition, published 1858.

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