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Windsor, or New Windsor (St. John the Baptist)

WINDSOR, or New Windsor (St. John the Baptist), a borough, market-town, and parish, having separate jurisdiction, and the head of a union, locally in the hundred of Ripplesmere, county of Berks, 20 miles (E. by N.) from Reading, and 22½ (W. by S.) from London; containing, with the castle, 7887 inhabitants. This place owes its origin to a more ancient town about two miles distant, called by the Saxons, from the winding course of the river Thames, Windleshora, of which the present name, Windsor, is an abbreviation. The first authentic notice of that town, which had been the residence of the Saxon kings, occurs in an ancient charter of Edward the Confessor, granting it, with all its appendages, to the monks of Westminster, in whose possession it remained till the Conquest. William, soon after his establishment on the throne, struck with the beauty of its situation on the bank of the Thames, and the peculiar adaptation of the surrounding country to the pleasures of the chase, procured it from the monastery of Westminster, in exchange for some lands in Essex, and made it his occasional residence while pursuing the diversion of hunting. On a hill in the neighbourhood, that monarch erected a fortress, where he held his court in 1070; and two years afterwards, he assembled in it a synod of the nobility and prelates, at which the question of precedency between the sees of Canterbury and York was discussed, and decided in favour of the former. Around this fortress he laid out extensive parks; he enlarged the boundaries of the neighbouring forest, and enacted severe laws for the preservation of the game. Old Windsor, however, continued to be the residence of William and his successors till 1110, when Henry I., having partly rebuilt and considerably improved the fortress which his father had erected, by the addition of a suite of apartments, converted it into a palace, in which he occasionally resided and kept his court. From this time the importance of the ancient town began to decline; and subsequently a new town arose in the immediate vicinity of the castle, which was distinguished by the appellation of New Windsor.

In the treaty of peace between Stephen and Matilda, the castle is referred to by the name of "Mota de Windsor;" and after the death of Stephen, Henry II. held a council here, in 1170. When Richard I. embarked on his expedition to the Holy Land, the castle became the residence of the Bishop of Durham, to whom, in conjunction with the Bishop of Ely, the king had entrusted the administration of the government in his absence. King John, during his contest with the barons, resided in the castle, at that time considered the next strongest fortress after the Tower of London: it was ineffectually besieged by the barons. Henry III. erected a barbican, and strengthened the fortifications and outworks of the castle, which, in the baronial wars of this monarch's reign, was alternately taken and retaken by the contending parties, till Prince Edward (afterwards Edward I.) finally obtained and held it for his father. On the prince's succession to the throne, the castle was frequently the place of his residence, and four of his children were born at Windsor, which was likewise the favourite retreat of his queen Eleanor. Edward III., who was also born here, rebuilt the palace on a more extensive and magnificent scale, raised additional towers, erected the keep, and, near it, a tower of high elevation, named Winchester Tower, after William of Wykeham, Bishop of Winchester, whom Edward had made superintendent of his buildings. The same sovereign erected the collegiate chapel of St. George, for a dean and twelve canons; also St. George's hall, as a banqueting-house for the knights of the order of the garter, of which he was the founder. He further surrounded the whole with a strong wall and rampart, faced with stone and encompassed with a moat. While this monarch occupied the throne, two sovereigns were prisoners in the castle at the same time, viz., John of France, and David of Scotland, the latter of whom he had captured after the reduction of that country. Edward IV. enlarged and partly rebuilt the collegiate chapel, the choir of which was vaulted by Henry VII., who also erected the lofty pile of building adjoining the state apartments in the upper ward. Henry VIII. added materially to the buildings by the erection of the prebendal houses and the gateway leading into the lower ward. Edward VI. and Queen Mary both made Windsor their residence; and, among other improvements, constructed a fountain in the centre of the upper quadrangle, from which the whole castle was supplied with water. Elizabeth, after her accession to the throne, resided occasionally in the palace, to which she added some buildings next the Norman gateway, and that part adjoining the buildings of Henry VII. which is called Queen Elizabeth's gallery. She also raised the noble terrace on the north side of the castle, commanding a beautiful view of Eton College, and an extensive prospect over the vale of the Thames. During the civil war, the castle, which had received several additions from Charles I., was seized and garrisoned by the parliament, who, notwithstanding an attempt by Prince Rupert, in 1642, to regain possession of it for the king, retained it in their hands till the conclusion of the war.

After the Restoration, Charles II. repaired the injuries it had suffered, and greatly embellished the interior; and James II. and William III. ornamented the state apartments with a splendid collection of paintings. In almost every succeeding reign this interesting structure continued to receive additional embellishment. By George III., the alterations and additions were conducted on a larger scale, and with a stricter regard to the restoration and preservation of the original character of the building, than by any of his predecessors since the time of Edward III. In the reign of George IV., the varied attractions of Windsor induced that monarch to make it his principal residence; and under the influence of a correct and refined taste, which duly appreciated the merits of the ancient English style, a design was formed for the enlargement and decoration of the castle, of which a considerable part was accomplished under the king's immediate superintendence. For carrying this into effect, various sums, amounting to £771,000, were granted by parliament in this and the succeeding reign for the buildings alone; and among the different plans which were submitted, that of Mr. Jeffrey Wyatt was, on the approbation of His Majesty, adopted by government. Under this design, several parts of the old building that had been injudiciously engrafted on the main edifice were entirely removed; and portions of freehold land within the park, belonging to private individuals, were purchased, and made to conform in their appearance with the varied beauty of the grounds. The height of the buildings throughout the castle was increased by a new story; several towers were erected, windows of lofty dimensions and of appropriate character generally inserted, and some splendid gatewayentrances from the principal approaches formed in a style of commensurate grandeur; which, with subsequent improvements, have rendered this highly interesting structure, with its appendant gardens, parks, and pleasure-grounds, pre-eminently adapted to the purposes of a royal residence.

Windsor Castle occupies more than twelve acres of ground, and comprises the upper, lower, and middle wards. The principal approach is from the Little, or Home, Park, through a gateway flanked on one side by the York tower, and on the other by the Lancaster tower, both massive structures, 100 feet high, crowned with projecting battlements supported on corbels. This gateway, which ranges in a line with the noble avenue of elms in the Great Park, called the Long Walk, was erected by George IV., whose name it bears; the first stone being laid on the 12th of August 1824, when His Majesty was pleased to change the name of the architect from Wyatt to Wyatville. It is a stately structure, forming an entrance into the Upper ward, a spacious quadrangle, to which are also entrances through St. George's gateway at the south-west, leading from the town, and through the ancient Norman gateway at the west, from the middle and lower wards. On the north side of this quadrangle are the state apartments, which are open to the inspection of the public; on the east, Her Majesty's private apartments; on the south side, apartments for Her Majesty's visiters; and on the west, the round tower, or keep, to the front of which has been removed, from the centre of the quadrangle, an equestrian statue in bronze of Charles II. in the Roman costume, on a marble pedestal ornamented with sculpture. About 400 feet from the castle, on its south side, and to the west of the Long Walk, are the new stables, erected in the present reign, by a parliamentary grant of £70,000; they extend upwards of 600 feet, and include a riding-house nearly 200 feet in length by 68 in breadth. The approach to the state apartments is by a superb vestibule portioned into three parts by ranges of finelyclustered columns and gracefully-pointed arches, in the most finished character of the later English style. The roof is elaborately groined, and decorated with fantracery of elegant design; in the walls are four larger and three smaller niches for the reception of statues, richly canopied, and highly embellished with architectural work. The Grand Staircase, divided in the centre by a broad landing place, is defended with a balustrade of bronze, with massive pedestals, and capitals of polished brass, and lighted by an octagonal lantern 100 feet high from the pavement; the roof is delicately ornamented with fan-tracery depending from the centre, and ending with the royal arms, encircled by the garter. At the termination of the grand staircase is the Drawing-room. Over the folding-doors are the royal arms in artificial stone, and on each side are shields of the arms of several British monarchs, supported by angels. The decorations of this apartment are of the most superb character. The ceiling is beautifully painted in compartments, representing the restoration of Charles II., the Labours of Hercules, and other subjects, and bordered with flowers and fruit, and ornaments richly gilt. The mirrors, chandeliers, and furniture, are in a corresponding style of elegance; a choice selection of paintings by the first masters, is finely displayed, and the whole embellishments are disposed with the most refined taste, and on a scale of the most splendid magnificence. The Audiencechamber, of which the ceiling bears an allegorical representation of the Re-establishment of the Church of England, is decorated with hangings of blue silk richly embroidered; the chair and canopy of state are superb, and here, also, is a collection of paintings, chiefly historical, representing the victories of Edward III., painted by West, and the first installation of the knights of the garter, in which last more than 100 figures are finely grouped. The Presence-chamber, and indeed the whole suite of these state apartments, are of equal grandeur.

The Ball-room is finished in the most elaborate style of Louis XIV. The walls and ceiling are panelled in compartments, highly ornamented and richly gilt. In the larger panels of the walls are some superb specimens of tapestry, most exquisitely worked, representing the history of Jason and the Golden Fleece; the colours are singularly vivid, and at the same time so softened by the skilful combination of light and shade, as to have all the force and delicacy of the finest painting. In the intermediate panels are six mirrors, of large dimensions and great brilliancy. A pair of folding-doors, panelled and ornamented to correspond with the walls, open into St. George's Hall, a spacious apartment, appropriated as a banquet-room for the knights of the garter. It is nearly 200 feet in length, and of proportionate width and elevation. The lofty arched ceiling is supported on beams springing from corbels decorated with shields, on which are emblazoned the arms of the original knights; and is divided into thirteen compartments, subdivided into panels of bold design, containing nearly 700 shields with the arms of the knights up to the present time. At the east end, under a canopy, is the throne of Her Majesty as sovereign of the order, at the back of which are Her Majesty's arms, and on each side those of twelve preceding sovereigns, richly carved and emblazoned, and also those of Edward III. and the Black Prince. The mantel-piece is a massive piece of workmanship of Dove marble, sculptured in flowers and foliage, with the initials of George IV. In the Guard-chamber have been deposited, on pedestals erected for the purpose, under canopied niches, a number of suits of ancient armour, the coats of mail of John, King of France, and David, King of Scotland, with other military trophies; on other pedestals, busts of the Duke of Wellington and the Duke of Marlborough; and on a pedestal formed of the frustum of the Victory's main-mast, a bust of Admiral Lord Nelson. In the Waterloo Chamber, a magnificent apartment 100 feet in length, 46 feet wide, and 45 high, and lighted by a lantern, have been arranged portraits of the various sovereigns, popes, cardinals, ministers of state, generals, and others connected with the prosecution of the war on the continent, and in the negotiation of the late peace; painted by Sir Thomas Lawrence, at an expense of more than £36,000, paid from the privy purse.

The entrance to Her Majesty's private apartments is in the south-east angle of the quadrangle, through a handsome hall, from which is an ascent by a double staircase of great architectural beauty, lighted by a double lantern of elegant design, into a corridor 500 feet in length, communicating with Her Majesty's apartments on the east, and with the visiters' apartments on the south. The ceiling of this gallery is panelled in compartments, with delicate tracery, and the walls are decorated with paintings by the most eminent masters of the old and modern schools; the furniture is of the most sumptuous character, and the whole, enriched with every architectural ornament which the later style combines, has an air of costly grandeur. The private apartments consist of a dining-room, drawing-room, smaller drawing-room, and library, with bed-rooms, dressingrooms, boudoir, and various other apartments. These rooms are most splendid; they are decorated with every ornament that ingenuity can devise, or wealth purchase, and lighted with superb oriel windows enriched with tracery, which are not only of internal grandeur, but add greatly to the external embellishments of the castle. An apartment adjoining St. George's Hall was consecrated in December, 1843, as a private chapel for Her Majesty: the organ, formerly in the chapel at Buckingham House, was built by Samuel Green about 1770, and was the favourite instrument of George III. The rooms for Her Majesty's servants occupy the lower and higher stories of the palace. In front of the private apartments is a parterre, 400 feet in length and of equal breadth, surrounded by a broad terrace rampart wall with bastions; in the area are numerous statues finely sculptured, and under the terrace on the north side is an orangery, 250 feet in length, the front of which forms a long series of finely-pointed arches with tracery.

The Middle ward comprises the Round Tower, or keep, which was formerly the residence of the constable, whose office was both of a military and a civil nature. In his military character he was entrusted with the command of the castle, and with the custody of every thing contained in it, assisted by a lieutenant-governor, or deputy, who possessed equal authority during his absence. In his civil capacity, he was judge of a court of record having jurisdiction over the precincts of the forest, 77½ miles in circumference; this office is now vested in a steward, assisted by a janitor who is keeper of the prison, though no process has issued for many years. The Round Tower, which is of very spacious dimensions, has been raised many feet higher than its original elevation, and is crowned with a projecting machicolated battlement, supported on massive corbels and arches, and surmounted on the eastern part of the circumference by a turret, on which the royal standard is displayed during Her Majesty's residence at the castle. The lower part of the tower is surrounded by a rampart, in which are embrasures for seventeen pieces of cannon: the ascent to it is by a flight of 100 stone steps. The roof of the staircase is supported by corbels, consisting of busts of kings, knights, angels, and others, many of which are in good preservation: at the summit of the staircase is a large piece of cannon, pointed at the entrance, through an aperture in the wall; and from the rampart a strong arched gateway, grooved for a portcullis, leads into the main tower, formerly appropriated to the reception of state prisoners of high rank.

The Lower ward or quadrangle is entered from the town through Henry the Eighth's gateway, flanked with two lofty massive towers. It comprises the collegiate chapel of St. George, beyond which, on the north side, are the houses of the dean, canons, minor canons, and other officers of the college, and various towers, among which are those of the Bishop of Winchester, who is prelate, and the Bishop of Salisbury, who is chancellor, of the order of the garter; a small portion of a tower formerly belonging to the garter king at arms; and a store tower. Apartments are also fitted up in this ward for the commanding officer and officer on guard, who, though subordinate to the constable, or governor of the castle, has the command of a company of the royal foot guards, always on duty here. In an apartment in the deanery, called the garter-room, the arms of the sovereign and knights companions of the order are emblazoned; and an ancient screen is decorated with the arms of Edward III., and of the several sovereigns and knights companions of the order from its original foundation. This apartment is at present used as a robingroom on days of installation.

St. George's chapel has a chapter, which is also a corporation, consisting of a dean and eight (formerly 12) canons, possessing the patronage of the six minor canonries, and 55 benefices, with one other benefice alternately; the establishment likewise embraces 10 choristers, a steward, treasurer, and several other officers. Four canonries have been suspended, and the proceeds transferred to the Ecclesiastical Commissioners. The minor canons have an allowance of £60 each, and six livings are appropriated to them by the chapter; they also hold property bequeathed to them as a body. The edifice, as before observed, was originally built by Edward III., on the site of a smaller chapel erected by Henry I., and dedicated to Edward the Confessor; it was considerably enlarged by Edward IV., materially enriched by Henry VII., and repaired, restored, and greatly embellished by George III., who expended £20,000 in its improvement. Very extensive alterations and embellishments were effected between the months of May and October, 1843. Many portions were carefully restored, and inferior coatings removed; a large quantity of stained glass of the most splendid description was introduced; numerous parts of the edifice were emblazoned with the arms of knights of the garter and distinguished families, under the superintendence of Wiilement, and this magnificent chapel now presents an appearance grand in the extreme. It is a cruciform structure in the purest character of the later English style, of which it displays one of the finest specimens in the kingdom; the transepts project in an octagonal form from the main building, and at the extremities of the aisles are lateral octangular projections, forming sepulchral chapels. Pierced parapets of elegant design, and buttresses crowned with square embattled turrets, are the principal external embellishments. The interior is finely arranged; the walls are panelled throughout in one general design, of which the windows, enriched with tracery, and divided by battlemented transoms, form an integral part.

The Nave is separated from the aisles by arches and piers of peculiar beauty, adapted to the contrast of light and shade with singular effect. Its roof and that of the choir are elaborately groined, embellished with fantracery of beautiful design, and splendidly decorated with shields of armorial-bearings and heraldic devices. It is lighted by an elegant range of clerestory windows, which are continued round the transepts; and the great window, which occupies the whole of the western extremity above the entrance, is enriched with tracery, and adorned with ancient stained glass of unrivalled brilliancy. The Choir, in which the installation of the knights takes place, is separated from the nave by a screen of artificial stone, from Coade's manufactory, ornamented with several devices illustrative of the order of the garter. In the choir are the stalls of the sovereign and knights companions of the order, enriched with historical and emblematical carvings, and with the names and heraldic honours of the knights emblazoned; the curtains and cushions are of blue velvet with gold fringe, and on the canopies of the several stalls are deposited the sword, helmet, mantle, and crest of the knights, above which are their banners of silk, with armorial bearings. The stall of the sovereign, whose banner is of velvet mantled with silk, and considerably larger than that of the knights companions, is on the right hand of the entrance. The other stalls, originally 25 in number, now increased to 31, occupy the north and south sides of the choir. The altar is embellished with a painting of the Last Supper, by West, which is considered to be one of the best productions of that artist; and the wainscot surrounding the presbytery is ornamented with the arms of Edward III., Edward the Black Prince, and the knights who originally composed the order, finely carved. In the east window is a beautiful painting of the Resurrection, in three compartments, executed by Jarvis and Forrest, from a design by West, at an expense of £4000; and in the windows on the north and south sides of the altar are the arms of the sovereign, and of the several knights companions who subscribed to defray that expense. The east window of the south aisle is adorned with a painting of the Angels appearing to the Shepherds, and in the west window is one of the Nativity; the west window of the north aisle contains a painting of the Adoration of the Magi, and at the eastern extremity is a chapter-room, forming an approach to the royal closet on the north side of the altar.

The various monumental chapels are separated from the aisles by screens of appropriate character, and in the south transept is a modern font of good design. At the east end of the north aisle are deposited the remains of Edward IV., over whose tomb is a black marble slab with the inscription "Edward IV. and his queen, Elizabeth Widville:" an elegant monument of iron, beautifully wrought, and representing a pair of gates between two antique towers, of elaborate design, which formerly covered the tomb, has been removed to the north side of the altar. In the opposite aisle, near the choir, were deposited the remains of Henry VI., brought from Chertsey, in Surrey, by order of Henry VIII. Near the ascent to the altar is the entrance to the royal vault, in which were interred the remains of Henry VIII.; of his queen, Jane Seymour; and of Charles I., whose coffin was opened by order of George IV. while Prince Regent, when the remains were found in a very perfect state, the countenance being as fresh as at the time the body was interred. In a small chapel at the east end of the south aisle are the monuments of Edward, Earl of Lincoln, and Richard Beauchamp, Bishop of Salisbury, first chancellor of the order of the garter. In the same aisle is a small chantry, erected in 1522, by John Oxenbridge, a canon, and a benefactor to the chapel; adjoining which is King's, or Aldworth, chapel, probably erected by Dr. Oliver King, Bishop of Bath and Wells, whose remains are interred in it. Opposite to this chapel are some panels of oak, on which are carved the arms and devices of Prince Edward (son of Henry VI.), Edward IV., and Henry VII., whose portraits, in full length, are painted on the panels. Near the centre of the aisle is the chapel of Sir Reginald Bray, who is interred here; and at the west end is the Beaufort chapel, containing monuments of Henry Somerset, Duke of Beaufort, of white marble, elegantly decorated with sculpture; and of Charles Somerset, Earl of Worcester, and his lady, Elizabeth: on this latter tomb are the effigies of the earl dressed in the habit of the order, and of his lady in her robes of state.

In the centre of the north aisle is Rutland chapel, in which is an alabaster monument to the memory of Sir George Manners, Lord Roos, and Lady Anne his wife, niece to Edward IV.: on the tomb are the figures of Sir George in armour, and his lady in her robes of state, while round it are the effigies of their children. In this chapel, Sir Thomas Syllinger and his wife Anne, Duchess of Exeter, and sister of Edward IV., were also interred; and it contains a beautiful marble tablet to the memory of Major Packe, killed at the battle of Waterloo, who is represented as being raised from the field by a brother officer. The same aisle, near the choir, comprises the chapel of St. Stephen, decorated with paintings illustrative of the life and death of that martyr: this chapel was erected by Elizabeth, widow of Lord William Hastings, whose remains were deposited in it after his decapitation by Richard III. In the south aisle of the choir is the chapel of St. John the Baptist, similarly decorated with paintings illustrative of his history. At the southwest corner of the church is Urswick's chapel, founded by Dr. Christopher Urswick, Dean of Windsor, who contributed greatly, with Sir Reginald Bray, to the completion of the church; it contains the cenotaph of the Princess Charlotte, beautifully executed in white marble, by Mr. Matthew Wyatt. There are several other chapels; and, in various parts of this imposing structure, numerous interesting specimens of magnificent decoration.

At the east end of the collegiate chapel is a chapel erected by Henry VII., as a place of interment for himself and his successors; but the king afterwards changing his purpose, it remained in a neglected state till the reign of Henry VIII., when Cardinal Wolsey, by royal permission, began to erect a splendid tomb, the design of which exceeded in magnificence that of Henry VII.'s in Westminster Abbey. The cardinal died before it was completed, and was buried in Leicester Abbey; and the unfinished sepulchre was destroyed in the parliamentary war. James II. converted the building into a chapel, and employed the artist Verrio to ornament the walls and ceiling with paintings; but the populace, excited by the public performance of Roman Catholic rites, furiously assailed the building, destroying the windows and interior decorations. In this ruined state it remained till George HI. ordered it to be repaired, and constructed within it a royal mausoleum, in which George III. and IV., and William IV., with several other members of the royal family, have been interred. In clearing away the ground for this purpose, the workmen discovered two coffins in a stone recess, in one of which were the remains of Mary, daughter of Edward IV. and Elizabeth Widville, and in the other, those of their third son, George, Duke of Bedford: the remains of both were reinterred in the same tomb with those of their parents. The chapel above the mausoleum, or crypt, is intended as a chapter-house for the order of the garter. It is lighted by a fine range of windows with tracery, which form a beautiful group at the east end, which is hexagonal; the west end is ornamented with a large window of elegant design.

The palace is situated in Grounds exceedingly attractive. It is surrounded on all sides, except the west, by a noble terrace, above 2500 feet in extent, faced with a strong rampart of hewn stone, and having, at convenient intervals, easy slopes leading down to the park. The smaller park, which is generally called the Home Park, immediately on the north-north-east and south sides of the castle, is about four miles in circumference, and was inclosed by William III. with a brick wall. Under the terrace, on the east side of the castle, is a beautiful lawn laid out in shrubberies and walks, called the Slopes, and extending on the west side of the park, from the north, terrace to the Adelaide Lodge. On the opposite side of the road is Frogmore Lodge, which was purchased by Queen Charlotte; the gardens and pleasure-grounds are tastefully laid out, and contain many interesting objects, among which is a hermitage, designed by the Princess Elizabeth, and perfected by Mr. J. Wyatt. This hermitage is situated on the margin of a beautiful piece of water. In the interior is an elegant apartment, in which are the effigy of an infant reposing on a cushion, and a monumental tablet to the memory of the Princess Charlotte, in which the countenance of the princess, and the representation of her infant are exquisitely sculptured. The Long Walk, extending from the upper quadrangle of the castle into the Great Park, is continued in a direct line for three miles, forming a noble avenue of double rows of elms, 77 yards wide, and, at the opposite extremity, ascending a hill of considerable elevation, on which the first stone of a monument in honour of his royal father was laid by George IV., in 1899. The monument consists of a colossal statue in bronze, 25 feet high, by Westmacott, placed on a pedestal 40 feet high, and forming a conspicuous object from the castle. Near this spot is Cumberland Lodge, the residence of the Duke of Cumberland, brother of George III.

The Great Park, which is partly in the parish of Old Windsor, is eighteen miles in circumference; it abounds with forest scenery of great beauty, and is agreeably diversified with hill and valley, and with water. Virginia Water, issuing from a valley commencing near the back of Cumberland Lodge, after winding for several miles through the varied scenery of the park, expands towards the south-east into a beautiful lake, more than a mile in length and of considerable breadth. This lake is bounded by a verdant lawn surrounded with extensive plantations of various kinds of trees, and is terminated by a fine cascade, a view of which is obtained from a bridge on the high road over the rivulet formed by the waste water of the lake, and running into the Thames near Chertsey. On the margin of the lake, an elegant temple and a fishing gallery, of very light and beautiful design, have been erected: there is also a large ruin, consisting of numerous ancient columns of marble brought from the ruins of Corinth, and classically arranged and re-constructed by Sir Jeffrey Wyatville. The grounds are planted with shrubs and flowers, and laid out in pleasant walks; the surface of the lake is enlivened with pleasure-boats, and with several beautiful models of ships, among which is an elegant model of the Euryalus frigate, presented by Captain Inglis. After its partial restoration and improvement, George IV., on the 9th of December, 1828, took possession of the castle; which, from the extent and grandeur of its buildings, the richness of the surrounding scenery, diversified with hills and vales enlivened by the frequent windings of the Thames, and the peaceful waters of an inland lake; the luxuriant woodlands within the inclosures, and the majestic forest in the vicinity; must unquestionably be regarded as one of the most magnificent palaces in Europe.

The Town of Windsor is pleasantly situated on the acclivities of the hill on which the castle is built. It has six principal streets, intersected by several smaller; is well paved, lighted with gas, and amply supplied with water: the houses are in general of brick, and of respectable appearance, and several in the more modern part are handsome and well built. The approach from Datchet is strikingly beautiful; and at the other extremity is an elegant iron bridge of three arches, resting on piers of granite, the first stone of which was laid in 1822, by the Duke of York, connecting the town with Eton, on the opposite side of the Thames. Considerable improvements liave been made within the last 20 or 30 years, among which are, the removal of the ancient edifices of lath and plaster, and the erection of some lines of building fronted with stone, in which the materials of the lodges that were taken down for the improvement of the castle have been used: among the more recent erections are, York Place, Brunswick Terrace, and Augusta Place. On the west side of High-street is a meadow comprising more than two acres, called the Bachelors' Acre, which has been from time immemorial appropriated to the commonalty of the borough for their amusements. It is bounded on the east and south sides by a high bank; on the summit is a broad terrace, at the end of which is an obelisk, with inscriptions on the pedestal, commemorative of the fiftieth anniversary of the accession of George III., and of the visit of Her Majesty and the princesses, upon that occasion, to partake of the old English fare provided for the assembled populace. The infantry barracks form a commodious range of building, erected in 1795, and enlarged to their present extent in 1803: the cavalry barracks, about half a mile from the town, on the road to Winkfield, are handsomely built, and occupy an open, healthy, and pleasant situation. The theatre, in Thames-street, a small convenient building, erected in 1815, at an expense of £6000, advanced on transferable shares, is open during the Ascot races and the vacations at Eton. A public library in Castle-street, is well supported; and there is also a subscription circulating library.

Windsor, though possessing the advantages of a navigable river, and other favourable circumstances, among which may be reckoned a station on the Great Western railway at Slough, about two miles distant, has no particular branch of manufacture, and the trade is almost confined to what is necessary for the supply of the inhabitants. The town is indebted equally for its origin and its continued prosperity to the erection of the castle, and to its selection as a royal residence. It has, however, long been celebrated for the quality of its ale, of which considerable quantities are sent to London and other towns. An act was passed in 1847 for a railway to Richmond, there to join the London and Richmond line. The market-days are Wednesday and Saturday, the latter chiefly for corn, which is pitched in the market-place; the fairs are on Easter-Tuesday, July 5th, and Oct. 24th. A commodious market-place has been constructed for the sale of butchers' meat and other provisions: the area underneath the guildhall is appropriated as a corn-market.

The inhabitants were first incorporated in the fifth of Edward I., from which time this was the county town till 1314, when Edward II. transferred that distinction to Reading. The charter was extended and confirmed in various successive reigns; but the corporation at present consists of a mayor, six aldermen, and eighteen councillors, under the act 5th and 6th of William IV., cap. 76. The borough is divided into two wards, and the municipal and parliamentary boundaries, which comprise 2625 acres, are co-extensive; the mayor, late mayor, and recorder, are justices of the peace, and the number of other magistrates is six. Quarterly courts of session are held for all offences not capital. The powers of the county debt-court of Windsor, established in 1847, extend over the registration-district of Easthampstead, and part of the districts of Windsor, Eton, and Cookham. The borough first exercised the elective franchise in the 30th of Edward I., and sent members to parliament till the 14th of Edward III., from which time it discontinued till the 25th of Henry VI.; since that period it has regularly returned two members: the mayor is returning officer. The guildhall, a spacious and handsome building in High-street, erected in 1686, is supported on columns and arches of Portland stone, and ornamented at the north end with a statue of Queen Anne, and at the south with one of Prince George of Denmark: the chamber in which the public business of the corporation is transacted, is decorated with portraits of all the sovereigns from James I. to Queen Anne, of George III. and his queen, and George IV.; also with portraits of Prince Rupert, Archbishop Laud, and some others. The common gaol and house of correction for the borough was rebuilt at the expense of George III.

The living is a discharged vicarage, valued in the king's books at £15. 3. 4., and in the patronage of the Crown; net income, £400; impropriator, Frederick Walpole Keppell, Esq. The church is a handsome structure in the later English style, with a lofty square embattled tower crowned by pinnacles, erected in 1822, upon the site of an edifice which, having become greatly dilapidated, was taken down in 1820. The expense amounted to £14,040, towards defraying which, George III. contributed £1050, and the Incorporated Society £750; £4000 were raised by subscription, and the remainder by a rate on the inhabitants. The interior is elegantly arranged. The altar is embellished with an excellent painting of the Last Supper, found in one of the chantries in St. George's chapel, where it is supposed to have been secreted during the parliamentary war: after having been restored to its place over the altar of that chapel, it was presented to this church by George III., in 1788. The screen is of oak, richly carved, to correspond with two massive chairs presented by the Princess Augusta; and the rail which surrounds the chancel, is elaborately carved with beautiful devices of pelicans feeding their youug, and with fruit and foliage, thought to be the work of the celebrated Gibbons, and formerly belonging to St. George's chapel. Under small arches at the east end of the church, are the royal closets, fitted up with crimson drapery; the corporation seat is ornamented with tabernacle-work, and surmounted by an enriched canopy. There are several ancient monuments, among which may be noticed the sarcophagus of Chief Justice Reeve, with busts of himself and his lady, by Schemacker; and that of Edward Jobson and Eleanor his wife, with their effigies, and those of their ten children, in the costume of the 16th century. The first stone of a military church dedicated to the Holy Trinity, was laid by Prince Albert, on the 4th of April 1842, a site having been presented by Mr. Bedborough. The edifice is of white brick and Bath stone, and is cruciform, in the early English style, having two large transepts, and a beautiful tower and spire together 148 feet in height. Three sides of the interior are fitted up with extensive galleries, of which those in the transepts are for the military, and that at the west end for the children; the body of the edifice is laid out with richlycarved oak benches, affording 1000 sittings, for the inhabitants of Windsor and Clewer. The expense, about £10,000, was raised chiefly by subscription, towards which Her Majesty contributed £200, and Prince Albert 100 guineas. The living is a perpetual curacy; patron, the Crown; income, £200. There are places of worship for Independents, Wesleyans, and Baptists.

On the north side of the church is a charity school, established in 1705, which has several benefactions vested in the funds, and an annual payment of £24. 15. from the exchequer, together amounting to £167; the school-house was erected by means of £500 bequeathed by Theodore Randue, Esq. A ladies' charity school was established in 1784, by subscription, under the patronage of Queen Charlotte; the income, arising from endowments, is £56. Another school is endowed for twelve boys; a national school is supported by subscription, and there are funds left by Mrs. Barker and Mr. Marrat, for teaching children, and by Mr. Panton, for the endowment of a Sunday school. Archbishop Laud bequeathed £50 per annum to the parish, to be employed for two following years in apprenticing five boys; and every third year in giving marriage portions to three maidens: this charity was augmented with a bequest of £1000 by Mr. Randue, with which, increased by £250 added by his executors, an estate was purchased now yielding a rental of £128. An hospital for eight men and women was endowed by Thomas Brotherton in 1510, and Richard Gallis in 1666, with funds now producing £102. 16. per annum; the almshouses were rebuilt in 1702, on an enlarged scale, and the number of inmates has been augmented to twelve. An almshouse for twelve women, founded by a bequest from Henry Franklyn, in 1575, and situated in Park-street, is supported from money vested in the parish. Near the Pitfields, now called the Bachelors' Acre, four almshouses were founded in 1687, by Richard Reeve, who endowed them with funds from which the inmates receive £10 per annum. A college for seven indigent gentlemen, situated in Datchet Lane, and called "Travers's College for Naval Knights of Windsor," was founded by a bequest made by Samuel Travers, in 1724, settling upon each of the inmates £60 per annum; the endowment was augmented in 1805, by Lieutenant Robert Brathwaite, and the whole income now amounts to £564. Mrs. Phebe Thomas, in 1821, bequeathed funded property from the proceeds of which twelve widows receive £10 per annum each. There are also bequests for apprenticing children, and for other charitable purposes. The union of Windsor comprises six parishes or places, and contains a population of 20,502.

Among the illustrious natives of Windsor were, John, eldest son of Edward I., who died in his infancy, and was interred at Westminster, in 1273; Eleanor, eldest daughter of the same monarch, born in 1266, and married to Henry, Earl of Burg, in France, from whom the house of Anjou and the kings of Sicily are descended; Margaret, third daughter of Edward I., born in 1275, and married to John, second duke of Brabant, from whose son John, the third duke, the dukes of Burgundy were descended; Mary, sixth daughter of the same monarch, born in 1279, who, when ten years of age, entered a nunnery at Amesbury, in the county of Wilts; Edward III.; William, the sixth son of Edward, who died in his infancy; and Henry VI. Her present Majesty gave birth to the infant Prince Alfred at the castle, on the 6th of August, 1844. Windsor confers the title of Earl upon the family of Stuart, marquesses of Bute.


Transcribed from A Topographical Dictionary of England, by Samuel Lewis, seventh edition, published 1858.

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